One of my rewards for living far from family is poking around in dusty old shops and crazy places like the grand bazaar called the
Khan el-Khalili. This famous and enormous "souk" was built in the 1500s although buildings in the area date back to 970 AD. The Khan is filled with hundreds of merchants selling everything: spices, gold jewelry, silver jewelry, beads, rugs, glass ornaments, galabayas and t-shirts, lamps, souvenirs, antique shops, metal workers, clothes, junk shops, fabric, shoes, etc. After four years of visiting the Khan I've found my favorite shopkeepers and usually make a quick visit to see if they have anything new. I bought all kinds of stuff when I first arrived because it was different and interesting. But now it takes something really special to make me part with my money. And boy do I hate negotiating with the shopkeepers. Hate it so much. I'm terrible at it and either pay too much or just get mad and walk away. Here are some of my special finds.
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Hands down this is the one of the most unique things in Egypt. I have a friend who is begging to buy it from me. It all started in a little antique shop in Maadi. I looked at it for a year but it was expensive so I kept saying no. I took a friend with me who loves old things and showed it to her. We both were convinced that it was pharonic because the wood is very old. Owning pharonic things, however, is against the law. The shopkeeper kept insisting that it wasn't pharonic and that if it were he could sell it for a million pounds. When the Egyptian pound devaluated about a year ago the price dropped by half. That's when I bought it, before he raised his price. |
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This sarcophagus is made of two sides with a seam. Its heavy and when you shake it you can hear something rattling around. I think it's bits of plaster but I swear others think its bones. I am not going to open it because I could never get it back together properly and who knows, there might be bones which would be too freaky. I'm better off not knowing! |
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This is really old wood. I know that from spending many hours inside the Egyptian museum and visiting museums around Europe that have Egyptian collections. It's wood and plaster. I need to study the hieroglyphics on it and see if I can make any sense of it. I was nervous about having this--and not sure about taking it out of the country when I leave--until I found the piece below. |
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I got this from one of my favorite shopkeepers in the Khan. He has the oldest stuff and os the one who solved the puzzle for me. My sarcophagus and boat are 200-year old (or so) souvenirs made for tourists in the 1800s and 1900s. And the reason they look so old is because they are made of broken bits of wood leftover in tombs after being raided. It makes me crazy that I have these pieces!! |
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These are my opium smokers that were used in opium dens in the late 1800s. There were opium dens in China, Southeast Asia, North America, and France. My friend Maria as a huge collection of these in different shapes and sizes. They used to be easier to find here in Cairo but alas, like a lot of antiques, they are harder to find. I actually bought the beautiful red and yellow one in a lamp store on Memorial Drive in Houston! It didn't have the metal pipe and I didn't know what it was but loved the ceramic. |
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These are my beautiful beautiful handmade glass birds and fish from an artist shop that is now closed. Only a few things are made there now. I am crazy for birds and fish and I love this color. It's a reproduction of the beautiful green pharonic glass that you see in museums. The painted glass lamps on the right are mosque lamps. In the old days they hung all around a mosque with candles or oil for illumination. Now they use lightbulbs. |
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I love love my glass pieces. |
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